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 [Repair] Exhaust Manifold Replacement Guide « View previous topic :: View next topic » 
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jtraider
PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Location: SKIATOOK OK

my 98 4 banger started sounding really loud. when i went to check the manifold i seem to be missing 1, maybe two bolts. one is the furthest bolt on the top to the left. and the other looks tobe in the center on top. do they sell these as a set or does anyone know what size to buy?
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DailyDrivenTJ.com
PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Dealer will sell those.

If they are asking a lot of money for a bolt like 5 dollars a piece, buy one and take it to a hardware store and match the grade, length, and thread.

Let's just hope that those bolts are NOT broken in the block.

-mk
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jtraider
PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Location: SKIATOOK OK

yeah, that would suck. but as i'm looking at the service manual and the haynes, the two ends appear to be some kind of nut/washer/ spacer combo. i just can't tell if there is anything back in the hole.
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don_keesho
PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2008 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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[wow, the previous post was someone from skiatook, just up the road from me.]

anyway OP, first off let me say thanks for your informative write-up. it has inspired me to tackle this job myself on my 4cyl TJ.

I have a question about the gasket sealer. Did you apply this directly on the gasket or did you apply it to the manifold/engine surfaces? Or both? Or does it make a difference? Also, did you apply it on both sides?

Furthermore, besides my cracked manifold, I had a leak where the manifold connects to the downpipe. There didn't appear to be any crack or malformation at the flange connection point, so Im wondering what extra step I might take to make sure the new connection does not leak there. Should I use the gasket sealer down there too?? Or maybe use that Permatex Muffler and Tailpipe Sealer since its more of a putty?

Thanks.
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DailyDrivenTJ.com
PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2008 1:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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don_keesho wrote:
...
I have a question about the gasket sealer. Did you apply this directly on the gasket or did you apply it to the manifold/engine surfaces? Or both? Or does it make a difference? Also, did you apply it on both sides?

Furthermore, besides my cracked manifold, I had a leak where the manifold connects to the downpipe. There didn't appear to be any crack or malformation at the flange connection point, so Im wondering what extra step I might take to make sure the new connection does not leak there. Should I use the gasket sealer down there too?? Or maybe use that Permatex Muffler and Tailpipe Sealer since its more of a putty?


Just spray it on both sides of the gasket. No need to spray on the engine block or the manifold. There should be an instruction on the can as to how to properly use the product.

Make sure the mating surface is clean to prevent any vacuum leak. Otherwise, you will be in for the whole tear down and reinstall.

I have seen some manifolds that do not align all that well but when I bolted them up they sealed enough to not cause any leak. If they are not lining up correctly to a point there is a gap, you either have to bent the down pipe somehow and get it to seal better or try finding the manifold that fit better.

I would not use any putty or any other stuff as that will instantly fail you in the emission inspection in some states. They don't even work anyways for any longer than a few days from my experience.

HTH,

-mk
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LabWaggun
PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Michael,

Just posting a Big Thanks for providing so much information. We Wrangler/TJ owners certainly get a work out with tools and chasing gremlins. Your exhaust header write-up gave me all the info needed to tackle the job. I put it off all summer and finally got around to cracking those bolts loose.

Did learn that with the right combination of extensions (wobble included) on both 3/8 & 1/2 inch sockets you can gingerly access just about every bolt-head beneath the intake manifold. Much preferred working from above than below.

No matter, my TJ no longer sounds like a sick beetle bug ninja

Hat is off to you and yours, and hope your holidays are great!

Lee
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rpkell
PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2009 6:48 pm    Post subject: Exhaust manifold Reply with quote

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Joined: 05 May 2009
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Location: Ama,La

Replaced the exhaust manifold on my 95 YJ yesterday with the ebay manifold. Took about 3 hrs. Not a bad job at all. Also replaced the o-rings on the injectors. Will keep you guys updated on how it lasts. Ordered mine from epartpal.com for $62 .
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DailyDrivenTJ.com
PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2009 9:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Exhaust manifold Reply with quote

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rpkell wrote:
Replaced the exhaust manifold on my 95 YJ yesterday with the ebay manifold. Took about 3 hrs. Not a bad job at all. Also replaced the o-rings on the injectors. Will keep you guys updated on how it lasts. Ordered mine from epartpal.com for $62 .


Was that for TJ or YJ?
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mashenden
PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Awesome instructions.

While there seems to be plenty of info on replacing the pre '00 manifold (the one piece design), in case anyone needs it, here are a few tidbits of experience related to doing a '00 TJ with the two piece exhaust manifold.

My rear manifold was the one cracked. I went with a new non-OEM cast iron rear exhaust manifold from e-bay rather than taking the risk of a used OEM part that may have been abused in its earlier life. It is not a tube style system, but instead looks very similar if not identical to the OEM, but with claims of improvements - we will see.

I took the approach of removing the injectors and fuel assembly without depressurizing the system. I think it worked well, although the AC lines and wiring harness makes this a bit tricky on my TJ. My suggestion is to disconnect the fuel injector wiring (after labeling), then disconnect the wire connectors near the front of the vehicle, which are 1) the plug to the thermostat and 2) the plug to the O2 sensor on the front down pipe. This will give enough play in the wiring harness to pull the injectors and fuel assembly out and move it out of the way while leaving a few hard to reach plugs still connected somewhere under the manifold.

The steering pump bolts were harder to remove than the manifold bolts. That said, I did overlook the obvious; there are holes in the pulley to allow you to remove the steering pump bolts using a ratchet. Duh :)

I had to grind the old bolts off that connect the exhaust manifold outlets to the down pipes since they clearly were not going to break free because of dirt, rust and a hard to reach angle. Since the kit came with 2 replacement bolts/nuts, I suspect that is how most people do it, but since I removed everything (front manifold, rear manifold and intake manifold) so I could clean everything properly before reassembling, I needed another set of two bolt/nuts. They are somewhat unique since the nuts have something on them to stop them from spinning when tightening. Consequently I had to make a trip to NAPA and they didn’t really have exactly what was needed but close enough.

I was able to use a torque wrench on all but 4 (bottom #'s 1, 2, 5, 7).

I am not sure if this is possible but the next time (hopefully not) when reassembling everything, I would try hooking the exhaust manifold outlets to the down pipes prior to putting in the intake manifold since the bolts are reasonably accessible from the top at this point in time, rather than later in cramped quarters from the bottom.

All things considered this job took me about 13 hours. Yes, I did take my time, but in my defense I had to spend a lot of time cleaning the front exhaust manifold since it was caked with red clay which incidentally I suspect was the cause of the other one cracking (thank you, PO).

It is so cool to have it working so well again. jive
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GCChamp
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 7:54 am    Post subject: EBay Manifold Reply with quote

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Joined: 03 Aug 2009
Posts: 19
Location: Homewood, AL

Looks like it has been a few years since the installation of the ebay manifold. How is it holding up? The TJ I just purchased has an exhaust leak that I have not begun to search for but I realize that it could be a cracked manifold. Just curious if I should go with an ebay manifold or another manufacture. Thanks! wave
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DailyDrivenTJ.com
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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It is holding up fine. I think this have been the longest interval for me not messing with the manifold.

mk
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GCChamp
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 9:05 pm    Post subject: Manifold to Exhaust Connection Reply with quote

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Joined: 03 Aug 2009
Posts: 19
Location: Homewood, AL

Good news!! Replaced the doughnut gasket between the manifold and the exhaust tonight. Exhaust leak solved! At least for now. Sounds like it is just a mater of time before you have to replace the manifold, but I'll just enjoy the quiteness for now.
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DailyDrivenTJ.com
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 9:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Manifold to Exhaust Connection Reply with quote

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GCChamp wrote:
... Sounds like it is just a mater of time before you have to replace the manifold, but I'll just enjoy the quiteness for now.


I am not planning on replacing the manifiold at all, at least not any time soon, nor it is showing any signs of leak.

If it does develop a leak, I will just install my new Borla header that I got from their warranty and hopefully ebay company who sold this manifold to me will warranty this one. I will just keep rotating the two. Worst case, I will just buy another ebay manifold.

I have done this several times over the years, I can do this job pretty quickly. With Borla I can really do this right around 3 hours easy because they leave so much room for your hand to move around for the install unlike the ebay version which sits right up against the block; making the lower bolts hard to manipulate.

Anywho, I am glad your problem was only the donut gasket!

Knock on wood for me AND all of us!

mk
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ErikS
PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 2:54 pm    Post subject: THANK YOU!!!!!! Reply with quote

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Dude this was by far the best directions I have seen for replacing a TJ exhaust manifold. Following it, saved me about $450. The pictures are clear, the wording makes sense. It is complete.

Mind you I am a retired USAF F16 wrench. I have turned a wrench for over 20 years, I avoid my cars because I hate crappy tech data and soft bolts. Though I had to cut off the exhaust bolts from the yoke, I did not have any problems doing this job. If only F16 tech data had nice clear pictures and words that made sense.

Good On Ya! and It'll Fly!
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hackley01
PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 10:59 pm    Post subject: Bottom bolts and fuel rail Reply with quote

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Your write up is fantastic! I wish I would have seen this three days ago!

2001 6-cylinder with 142,000 miles.

I have no mechanical training; but, I decided to replace my head gasket on my own. Coolant made its way into the oil. This is my first time attempting to do anything outside of audio systems. Unfortunately, I am stuck - I cannot get the fuel rail to pull free with the injectors. What should I do?

Additionally, I cannot figure out how to access the bottom bolts on the intake or exhaust manifold. My hands aren't that large; but, I just don't see any way to get a wrench to the bolts! Are there any places I should slide my wrench into? Do I need a special wrench?

I don't have much left to do except remove these two items then the head. Everything is labeled, greased, and ready to install.

I appreciate any advice you can offer!
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