1998 Jeep TJ Sport







Contact Me*

Please find me at the forum if you have any questions!


Website Last Updated:



Random Image



Did you Know?

Some portion of the website will not be available until further notice.


DDTJ has been transmitting 4GBytes+ of data every month to 3000+ unique visitors!

Please join the forum & share your knowlege and purchase decals to support the site!!


Problem with accessing the Forum?

eMail me at access @ dailydriventj D0T c0m


Michael can also be found in JeepForum.com and Jeepsunlimited.com under the user name 'Michael_K'.


Fuel Pump Assembly Repair

Yes! You can repair them!  ◆◆◇◇ Medium


After a five star dealer has worked on the fuel level sending unit part of the fuel pump assembly, the jeep has developed "hard to start when cold".  In the morning, when I tried to start the engine, it would take good 5-6 seconds to get it fired up.  So I called back, they suspect that fuel is bleeding back to the tank instead of staying in the fuel line so that when you crank, the fuel is not ready to go through the fuel injectors.  So when I crank the engine, the fuel pump has to pump the gas into the line all the way up to the injector and only when the sufficient pressure is built at the injector, the vehicle will start.  The amount of time it takes to get fired up basically equates to the time it takes for the fuel pump to fill up the fuel line.


The dealer claimed that the whole fuel pump assembly has to be replaced and it cost like $300 for the part and another $200 for the labor as they have to lower the WHOLE gas tank.  I have very hard time believing anyone in the automotive repair shops as many shops tried flat out LYING to me.  So my search began to see if it is indeed true that the whole fuel pump assembly has to be replaced. After a few days of search, I found Fuel Pump King store under eBay.  I purchased the repair kit and the fuel pump regulator for under $140 (shipped) about 2 years ago.  The fuel filter was missing from the kit and Mike from Fuel Pump King overnited the filter to me the next day!  What a great service!


That got me wondering if the dealers really replace the whole part.  They might just do what I did and charge the customer a lot more than they should.  I am not saying they do that, but it is sure possible judging from the availability of the parts for the repair!!


Symptom It Fixed

Hard to start when cold.  Long crank before start up.


Tools Needed

Socket and Ratchet Set

Floor Jack

Phillips Head & Flat Head Screw Driver

Strap Wrench

A Third Hand

Various Wrenches


Job Hours

3-4 Hours at Leisure Pace


 You are working with fuel tank.  Have a fire extinguisher ready!





1. Run the jeep as empty as you can without stalling the engine.


2. Make sure there is a fire extinguisher ready and make sure it is rated for flammable liquid.


 3. Depressurize your fuel line:

   -Pull out the fuel pump relay. (Located inside Power Distribution Center, next to the air filter box.)

   -Crank the engine. The engine will probably start and sputter then die.


4. Let the exhaust pipe cool down to prevent burns.


5. Disconnect Negative Batter Cable.


6. Remove tank filler Cap

7. Remove 8 Screws that hold the plastic fuel filler bezel.






8. Put the tank filler cap back on to prevent contamination of the tank.


9. Cut zip tie that holds the axle vent and the fuel filler hose together.


10. Disconnect the electrical Connection, the EVAP line, and the fuel line. (Total of 3 to disconnect)  They are located on the driver side near the rear shock mount.




   -Fuel Line is the closest one toward you.  Grab the gray tab with a long nose plier then pull the black part of the fuel line away from the metal part.  The gray tab stays on the metal fuel line.

   -EVAP Line is on top of the Fuel Line.  Just pull the rubber line off of the metal line.

   -Electrical Connector is shown left of the Fuel Line.  Slide the red tab, then pull the connector.


11. Place a floor jack underneath the fuel tank center where the protrusion is, raise it just so that you have slight upward push on the tank.  Don't lift the vehicle!!  You can damage your tank and fuel pump assembly!


12. Remove 4 nuts near the rear bumper that holds the fuel tank skid plate to the body (The fuel tank is wrapped around by the skid plate and skid plate holds it in place, do not separate the two).





13. Remove 3 nuts that near front side of the fuel pump.  Picture shown the location of the 3 bolts where the nuts hold the fuel tanks in place.






14. Lower the fuel tank but as you do so, have someone watch the fuel filler line to clear out of the opening near the shock.


15. Clean the top of the fuel tank of large debris to prevent contamination.


16. Using the strap wrench open the big O shaped lock nut which holds the fuel pump assembly.  IMPORTANT: Note the general direction of the out of fuel pump regulator.  It is roughly 10 and 11 o'clock direction.  Also remember the electrical wire input location into the assembly.  It will help you later on.  Remember how tight the lock nut is!!!



 17. You should be able to remove the fuel pump assembly.  There is rubber gasket that sits between the pump and the tank.  Don't let the gasket drop into the tank and watch out for the float!  If you have the whole assembly as a replacement skip to step 26.


18. Using a flat head screw driver, pull the metal tab that holds the fuel pump regulator.  Once the metal tab is removed.  You should be able to pull the regulator out.  Just pry it out with the flat head screwdriver.  Make sure there are O rings attached to the regulator.  If not find them and throw them away!  Don't leave them in the assembly.



19.  Inspect the fuel level sending unit.  This one pictured here is only a few months old.  Replace if necessary.






20. Now take the fuel assembly apart into two pieces.  In the picture, I have marked three tabs with three circles that holds the top half of the piece to the bottom half.  You need to push them in and pull the bottom piece.  As shown in the direction of the arrow.




21. When you take them apart, the top half looks like the picture.







22.  The picture shows the dirty fuel filter and the bottom part of the fuel pump shown on the left.  On the right, the new fuel pump is juxtaposed against the old.





23.  Disconnect the electrical connector then pull the old pump out.  The cork material doesn't seem to serve much of a purpose, but from my experience. it is a kind of guide to align the pump back into the bottom half of the fuel pump.  Pic on the right shows what it looks like once the pump is removed.


24.  Install the new pump.  The wiring harness for the pump will remind you the orientation as to how the fuel pump should be installed.  Note the cork material is reinstalled on the pump on the left. Don't forget like I did! ;)



24.  In the bottom half of the fuel pump assembly, you will find a plastic and metal washer unless they came off.  You need to place them on the bottom, if it came out along with the top half.  Put the plastic one first at the very bottom of the pump and then put the metal on top.



25.  Carefully slide the top half into the bottom half by aligning the three tabs highlighted in step 20.  Make sure you mate/align the bottom of the fuel pump to the mold of the bottom half and doing so you have to sandwich the washers shown in step 24.  It has taken me several tries to complete this step.  Also install the fuel filter element on the bottom of the assembly. 



26. Put the new fuel pump regulator back on to the assembly with the same orientation the old one came off of.  Put the metal tab back on top of the regulator.


27. Put fuel pump assembly back into the tank, make sure you sandwich the rubber O ring between the assembly and the tank!


28. Put the lock ring on.  Tighten it with the strap wrench (I hope you remember how tight it was when you were removing them).  According to factory specification, it takes 45 ft.lbs.


29. Reverse the tank removal process.  Tighten the nuts(7) to 12 ft.lbs.  Make sure you reconnect the electrical, fuel line, EVAP lines back together.


30. Put the fuel pump relay back on.


31. Put the negative cable back on the battery.


32. Turn the key to on position but do not crank.  Leave it on for 2 seconds to fill up the fuel line.  Repeat several times and crank the engine.  It should fire right up!


33. Enjoy the quick starting engine again!!


If you have any questions or recommendations, please let me know!!



I tried my best to document as much as possible along with pictures.  I hope you find them useful. However, do use the information provided here "as-is".  DailyDrivenTJ.com or the author does not warrant or assume any legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness, or usefulness of any information, or process disclosed.  Use the information at your own risk.


Written by Michael on 4.1.2006.


DailyDrivenTJ.com is best viewed at least 1024px width on FireFox (FREE)!


DailyDrivenTJ.com is a graphic intensive site. To best experience this web site, high speed internet connection is recommended.








Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Daimler-Chrysler Corporation.
DailyDrivenTJ.com is not associated with the Daimler-Chrysler Corp. in any way.

All materials presented in DailyDrivenTJ.com should only be used for entertainment. :)  DailyDrivenTJ.com does not warrant or assume any legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness, or usefulness of any information, or process disclosed.

DailyDrivenTJ.com has views since May 16th, 2006.

DailyDrivenTJ.com is hosted by SiteGround.com

Copyrighted © 2006 DailyDrivenTJ.com - All right reserved.